Its Prime-Time Jtree

my hands are freezing… fire should make them warm rite? *sticks hand IN fire*

 

Its a goregous & great time to be in jtree right now. This is the prime time to climb in this high desert.

Josh has been flooded with climbers & good times these past few months. I feel that there will be even more when the NEW Joshua Tree Bouldering Guide by Miramontes will be shipped out next month on the 16! I cant wait for it. The full coloured pages will get me psyched to find a new project out there. The book is for sale as a preorder ($37.50) $29.99 +shipping of course. Totes worth it imo.

Climb on this weekend everyone!

-Natalie Duran

Happy One Year Anniversary, My Love.

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It has been one year, on new year of my first visit to the gorgeous Joshua Tree National Park. The first time I visited Joshua Tree was with friends from Hangar 18 for a bouldering trip during the New Years (’10). Since that day I probably been back to Jtree 50+ times. Jtree has been the home of many climbing firsts for me:

      • First Trad climb following up with my first trad partner

      • First Multipitch climb

      • First Trad lead (which lead to my worst lead fall…. but also that single lead climb that lead to my love for trad climbing)

    • Buying my first trad rack and breaking that baby in at JTree

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    • First time learning top rope soloing

    • First free solo

So many precious firsts, and everything thereafter.

 

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Starry Nights in Hidden Valley Campground

Its not just a place for climbing for me, it really is a spiritual place. Im not the super hippy “one with mother earth” yea bru type of chick… its just something about JTree that brings out my hidden inner hippy. I know its there, because every single time I drive out of the park I leave with a gigantic smile on my face.  Jtree became my place of self reflection and the breeding ground of my ever growing independence. I begain to take many solo trips out to Jtree (hiking/climbing). Every quarter, after finals week I become mentally and physically drained/exhausted; still I somehow manage to drive an hour and 30min to Joshua Tree. After spending a night by myself under the bright stars in hidden valley campground I feel so rejuvenated, its magical. The fall quarter of 2010 was my most stressful finals week, physics class raped me. I took a hike out to lost palm oasis during the week, no one was there besides a few old folks. 205049_10150533520120554_722490553_17870178_7224958_nAbout a few miles in the elderly walked back to their cars and I was alone. 8hrs and 6.7mi later I found myself sitting in the a water oasis in the middle of Jtree eating spaghetti out of a Tupperware. I cant explain what the hell happened, but hiking out there on my own really helped me from the worst finals week in school & also alleviate stress about a shatty relationship that broke me.

 

 

 

 

I will also appreciate all the climbing trips Ive had with friends. I believe that climbing can bring people closer faster than anything. Ive created some of the strongest friendships from people i’ve met out at JTree. I cherish the good times, and respect all the friendly foreigners i’ve come into contact with.
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163150_10150335385550554_722490553_16022033_422690_nHappy New Years to all,

-Natalie Duran

Pulled a Sharma.

I spent the day climbing at New Jack City, in Victorville Cali. Climbed with my friend Sarah and Mr. Photographer Anthony. It was a photoshoot for future article in DPM, so hopefully you can see me in that later! The day was nice, sunny, and brisk. Very very brisk. Almost too brisk.

New Jack has metaphoric rock, very different from my normal, Joshua Tree sharp as shit rock. I learned quickly I cant smear on anything, its toe down or shut down. Metamorphic rock is a very interesting rock to climb on. Its almost like perfect slices of rock cut off in blocks, which makes for perfect pad crimps! Its awesome.

 

In reference to pulling a sharma… as soon as I climbed out from the cold shade out in the Raven Rocks area I got mega hot climbing in the sun. So when I got a good stance mid-climb took off my jacket and threw it down to the ground ha.

Enjoyed sport climbing mucho today. Didn’t do that bad, considering I have been doing nothing but bouldering this entire month. But… the bouldering has been in Bishop, so can’t complain in the slightest haha. Thought I did pretty well on the few 5.11s that were lead today. I usually would consider myself more of a “boulderer” or a “trad climber” over “a sport climber”. Mainly because I have a personal issue with fear of falling on sport lead. Its the preconceived notion of the pre-placed protection bolts that overcome my focus turned into fear, instead of focus on climbing. Straight up, fear follows me any space past a bolt.  Speaking about the placements of bolts… at New Jack City some routes are basically bolt ladders. On one 5.10b, the first and 2nd bolt were (no joke) 2 ft away from each other! This may be one of the reasons why I wasnt so fearful climbing on lead today ha, give me a real crag with run out sections and things may change. BUT, with trad climbing I place when I want to. I find that trad on lead I fall into a concentrated state of climbing. Placing when appropriate, not when another person thinks its appropriate. When climbing in Tahquitz I finished up a pitch, once I peered down to my belayer I saw that I ran out 40ft in one section!

If I continue with sport I’ll hopefully consider jumping on lead with 5.12s before the year ends! We’ll see. Untill then, keep calm & climb on.

-Natalie D.

Bishop Project Sending

Just came back from one of the best climbing trips ive had in my life. Great friends, great climbs, great weather. It was very nice to come back and send first go of Smooth Shrimp [V6] out in the buttermilks!

Send Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK8EGcMQXJsThe problem goes as a traverse on crimps. But honestly, I would call it a really soft V6. Speaking because the crimps are really bomber… almost jugs in some areas. And the end of the climb goes up a V1 up on flakes to the top of the boulder. Having no crash pads for the whole section of this climb will probably help you not butt dab. Definitely one that doesnt involve a mental challenge compared to the rest of the buttermilks. Speaking where the biggest challenge of the boulder problem would being high of the deck. The most terrifying part for my climbing on Bubba Gump boulder is the V1 down climb haha. Nonetheless, maybe if this climb was 15ft higher off the deck I could call it a V6 with the extra mental challenge. For now… its a soft but dragging V6.

My first attempt at this climb was last month, where I nearly flashed it… but failed to finish the climb because I was on my 3rd day of straight climbing on my first trip to bishop. My fingers were TRASHED bleeding, and I was exhausted. When I arrived at this boulder on my 2nd trip I got it first go, pretty cheese. Pretty excited about that. I still have yet to touch high planes drifter! Next trip!

-Natalie Duran

Climbing & Relationships

 

Disclaimer: This is a touchy subject, in which many may classify as
a very subjective & personal topic. But I want to express that there is
more to the climbing lifestyle than rocks & rope.
So here I am laying my emotions, expressions & opinions down.
So just hear me out, if you desire.

In the past couple years climbing has become an important part of my life… moreover daily life. It impacts almost everything and everyone I interact with. To the point where my mood is directly linked if I got to touch real rock or plastic that week. Speaking further, there is an interesting section of my life that climbing has drastically altered: relationships. The pool of “reasonable” men to date has bottle-necked. For the reason: climbing is more than a sport at this point, its a lifestyle. There are a few separate and individual reasons how/why my world of dating transformed.

  1. The physical aspect of it all. (All the feminists can talk hate on me, but this is how I see it) Before climbing I had a very VERY skinny physique. I stayed relatively healthy and never exercised. Godbless my parent’s chromosomes for high metabolism genes leading to my daintiness. Climbing and nothing else made me lose the little amount of fat I had, then gained MASSIVE muscles on my forearms and abs.
    With that background info stated… This bullet point #1 arises from a guy I dated who was significantly “less buff” than I. I wasn’t bothered by this… but here lies the issue: he was more bothered by it than I was. At first we would joke about it, but time went by and I began to see that it genuinely bothered him. To the point where it got in the way of us having a good time. It was most indefinite when taking him out climbing at the gym for the first time. Within five minutes all he did was (jokingly) complain how “your too strong for me… if you grow more muscles you will look like a man…” etc. At that point, I was done.
    Another instance is when I took someone out (whom I was interested in) for a multipitch trad climb. He had a personality I can groove with, but the test is to see if we can climb together well. I first learned I was physically stronger than him. In which the hike to the base of the mountain was too intense for him… while I handled it perfectly fine. Also that I had to rope gun all the pitches, which I was also fine with for a 5.8 climb… but its like dang boy. Starting the route I quickly learned that I was also mentally stronger. It was first belay station of the multipitch climb, with two bolts and one chain on a hanger. I lead that first pitch and set a bomber anchor with a cordalette at the belay station. A huge ledge gave me a very comfortable stance to bring him up. Once he followed up to the anchors he started freaking out and getting scared of how high we were. He became sloppy transferring belays and and still got sketched out with the bolted anchors. In all combination, the whole situation was a major turnoff. I am not (entirely) a shallow person mind you. A good conversation, good time & trust are the most important to me in partner. But hey, I like to feel like my partner could defend me & out climb me if I needed him to… and not the other way around.  But, in all aspects I am fully aware that this reason is solely physical and nothing else.
  2. Dating “non-climbers”. As stated earlier, climbing isn’t just a sport… its a lifestyle. I found that my daily life changed once I started climbing routinely. I do have a life outside of climbing. I’m a full time college student studying Biochemisty, and I have a job as a creative director on Youtube (Youtube.com/NDTitanLady).
    • So my weekday is as follows: wakeup -> school -> errands -> gym -> sleep -> repeat.
    • While the weekends are: outdoor climbing trips to god knows where & (maybe) laundry duty.

    Lack of give in my schedule doesn’t allot much time. Reducing my studies is out of the question & I am not very willing to give up climbing time (especially climbing trips). Also, I would always rather spend a day in Jtree getting my tips ripped by the Quartz Moizonite on JBMFP, than go watch a $15 movie I can torrent later or get wasted and what happened the following day. Climbing is a part of my daily life. I think and dream about it all day, all year. This “non-climber” dating no no comes from experience. I was in a serious relationship with someone I truly loved. For some reason I am a very devout person when it comes to relationships. As in, I would want to spend all my time with my significant other. I tried to balance my time with climbing and a relationship. I found out my (at the time) “non-climbing” boyfriend would not appreciate me going out and climbing out with other manly men constantly. I mean hell, I can’t help that majority of the sex in the sport of climbing are men. My motivation and psyche for climbing is fueled by feeding off people’s energy. In all honesty I really do enjoy climbing with guys more, they push me and I like to try to keep up without feeling to be equal or better. Surrounding myself with majority men, in a male dominated sport was inevitable.

  3. Not down for a commitment. Yes, I’m sure there are men that do not fit in this category (or sometimes the timing of the situation is what messes everything up)… but a some out of the few climbing men I attempted to be in a relationship with seemed to follow this same pattern. It all starts out as a dream. I think he’s rad, he thinks i’m rad, everything seems radtastic. We go on climbing dates, dates, blah blah. It works out great, we have our own separate daily lives but at some point during the week can come together and have a great time climbing. Then some time passes, and he gets the vibe I want to have a label and be “exclusive”. Once this stage happens, feelings fade quick. Sketchy McAlister arises, and personality changes.
    3rd time is the charm rite? Psyche. Ive heard the same thing again and again, “I don’t think I’m ready to be in a relationship.” dun Dun DUNNNN. Nonetheless how much that sucks for me, I do have great respect that they expressed their opinion before things continued any further. But it’s just so confusing. Things seemed so right, we had chemistry and can share the same passion. Then the switch is flipped dramatically. We become strangers, again.
    Climbing men are nomads, rocks are their 1st love. Climbing is their #1 girlfriend, anyone else is just a mistress. It seems like the thought of a committed relationship closes them up. They feel that when the title of bf & gf arrives, obligation of a relationship also follows. Which I can understand, because i’ve seen it before. Once friends would get in a relationship… its like they got kidnapped, I never see them around anymore. That being said, climbing men might not be down to get tied down; it might take them away from girlfriend #1, rock climbing.
    I’m not down to be the mistress, so it just never works out after those few weeks/months of attempting to be girlfriend #2. So I just established a rule for myself. No more dating in the gym. Or as my friends bluntly state, “don’t shit where you eat“. As things may seem promising, you never know where it can end. So to avoid another awkward tension, leave gym friends as friends. The fact of the matter is: you see the same people at the gym on a weekly, (or worse) a daily basis. Because trust me…It isn’t fun pretending a person doesn’t exist even though they are climbing 2 feet away from you. So your frequently visited gym = off limits. Thus, dating world bottle-necked further. Geez, if the bottle was necked any further it might as well be a can.

Lastly, I just want to apologize if anyone reading this happened to be offended. It is my honest opinion from experience & has been a topic of discussion many times within my climbing camaraderie. Also, to those men I’ve dated and somehow managed to find and read this, none of these points may apply to you. It is a collective discussion of personal stories from myself or friends. I am still young, no rush to figure out myself and what I really want. I know I don’t need a man to make me fell happy, because climbing & life accomplishments already suffices. But nonetheless…no regrets & no heavy hearts. Still in there being optimistic for future encounters, to keep an open mind. Just go with the flow and see what happens? Right? *sigh*

from the heart of,
-Natalie Duran.
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Jtree Ticklist

Reading Jtree guidebooks for me is like reading an exciting novel. In the sense of knowing that there is potential to experience every single description and picture topo for myself. So I went through the whole guidebook, which is now filled to the brim of post it notes for ticks, and then compiled a more concentrated tick list of climbs I DESPERATELY wanna hit. Jtree Fall 2011 tick list is as follows:

TRAD

  • Heart of Darkness [11a] – (Ryan Mountain/The Oyster Bar Area) – My FIRST trad lead!! This is my main tick list to do, a personal one for me defiantly.  I top roped it first, walked up super cheese. So then I decided to lead it for my first trad lead… took a gnarly fall (which I captured: here) and had an awesome time. And still to this day I have a huge scar indent in my shin that reminds me of this climb each and every day. But has to be the most gorgeous splitter in Jtree. And the rock is defiantly different than the rest of the park. Smooth on the hands, great to get those desperate jams in.
  • More Funky Than Monkey [11c] – (Barker Dam) – I finished this on TR last year, and I think this route is actually a lot more safer leading it than TR… because there is a sketchy slab that you will drag on if you dont get past the first 2 moves on the epic roof section. But none the less starts off on a slab section, following up immediately to the roof section. This was the first legitimate roof ive ever climbs and it was amazing. And pulling the roof had enough legit feet and hand jam after the roof to get up on the face. Then I vaguely remember desperately trying to finish through the thin crack section following the roof. An amazing climb, must do out in JTree.
  • Wangerbanger [11d] **** – (Echo Tee) – I followed up this route last year. My partner and I just did O’Kelley’s Crack [10c] just to the right of Wangerbanger and felt that O’Kelley’s Crack was significantly harder than Wangerbanger. Probably for a reason I dont have sausage fingers and there was some sections were I could get a whole hand into the crack where my partner could only get fingers in. But it is a gorgeous splitter consistent thins hand.
  • Hot Rocks  [11c] **** – (The Outback) – Great varied crack climb, tips crack that leads up to bomber jams… leading a bit left to balancey moves to a crack to the top.
  • Coarse & Buggy [11b] **** – (Roadside Rocks/Dihedral Rock) – Start at the base and climbs cracks up into a large dihedral with a thin crack, finishing up some pumpy liebacking.
  • Rubicon [10c] **** – (Split Rocks Area) – I first saw this when walking to go do Bird of Fire [10a] out in the same area. It was a gorgeous visually aesthetic climb. With a dangerous looking long traverse out left, then goes straight up practically under 90 degrees from the direction starting off the route. The rope drag just sounds immense with this climb. But defiantly one to do. Awesome thin crack.
  • Perfect Fingers [10b] **** – (Queen Mountain South Area) – When my partner and I made the heinous approach out into the heart of Queen Mountain we saw this line. We never got to it, so I really would like to go back and do this line. Queen Mountain is the most gorgeous area out in Jtree… definitely one of the best rock and lines out there. The heinous hike defiantly makes it worth it, you feel like your worlds away from anywhere. Its name pertains to the climb haha.
  • Crack Queen [11a] ** – (Queen Mountain South Area) – Long steep climb that has all different crack climbing styles. Fingers, fists, offwidth/squeeze chimney.
  • Equinox [12c] **** – (Queen Valley) – Super mega classic splitter thin crack that widens to thin hands up top.

- Natalie Duran

 

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