I’m Thankful for: Bishop Bouldering

On Thursday, November 22nd, I spent a wonderful and quick evening with my family celebrating Thanksgiving. As always, there was a plethora of leftovers. After washing the fine china and wine glasses, I packed up as much mashed potatoes that could fit in a Tupperware. I had a cooler packed with Thanksgiving leftovers and threw it in the car, tetris style, with all my camping and bouldering gear.

I attempted to sleep, but it didn’t happen. It was 4AM and I was ready to leave for Bishop! There is no need for coffee for me, when my adrenal glands are secreting adrenaline by the bucketload.

We had a slow Black Morning start… but eventually we headed out with the Riverside sun shining bright. It’s not a complete camping trip until I forget something important. This time I forgot my precious DSLR Canon T3i. For some reason I had no hesitation to drop by the closest Best Buy on the way to “borrow*cough*cough* a new DSLR body. Five minutes later I threw $1,000 down (“Shut up and take my money”), and I had a Canon T4i in my hands ready to capture the trip in its entirety.

We arrived at the Milks at noon. Every single campsite we passed by was occupied. Just as we were going to give up and head to the pit, we ran into our guy friends from the gym. Magically they nabbed a great group site in the milks just off the fork of the road. I was so glad we ran into them, personally I prefer to camp out in the Milks way more than the Pit.

–>Day 1: Buttermilks 

I didn’t get any pictures, so I guess it didn’t happen.

Climbing on day 1 is always a slow day. After setting up camp, I walked up the trail with my shoes/chalk and moseyed around. The Milks was packed, everyone and their mom was out… literally. Compared to last year, I noticed a larger attendance of families with their toddlers & dogs running around. As long as I don’t crush a fetus or puppy, then i’ll be fine. At the end of the day I managed to knock out a few soft V6. I called it a day once the sun disappeared over the Eastern Sierras, it was beer time.

–> Day 2: Happies 

The morning sun resting on my tent instanteously woke me up. I got myself dressed, and when I walked out of the tent I thought I was looking into a mirror. My friend Jackie Trejo was wearing the same exact style outfit as I was. This was 100% coincidence. I don’t know how this is possible. Plaid shirts are excusable, but the black & white geometric leggings? Now thats just weird.

Even though the weather predicted a high of 72F, it still felt really warm come 10 o’clock. We arrived at another busy crag. Our climbing day started late in the morning, and the Happies parking lot was almost completely full. The whole day felt like a hangout day the gym. Each boulder was occupied, there was no need to bring pads from boulder to boulder because the floors were already plastered down like gym mats.

I got on the Serengeti [V5] classic for the first time, using a gaston beta I finished it up. Then I spent my day repeating the classics. Like Solarium [V4]:

  • This dog was giving an epic spotting job.

  • Heavenly Path boulder warm-ups:

 

–> Day 3: Seven Spanish Angels [V6]

On Sunday we only climbed at the Seven Spanish Angels boulder out in the Milks. By the third day my finger tips looked and felt completely thrashed. I managed to obtain a few fleshy flappers throughout the weekend. Nonetheless, I jumped on a few problems out on this boulder.

This was my first trip out to Bishop for the season. I know I didn’t push myself at all. No project was started, barley touched anything hard. No stress for this trip. For now…

We left Bishop at noon, and headed through the desert drive all the way home. It was a great trip! Can’t wait for my tips to heal and head back again.

Oh, and shoutout to Schatt’s Bakery for being so amazing every time. It’s not an official trip to Bishop if you have not visited this bakery! The best time is to go in the morning and head to the back of the shop for the discounted day-old bread that is 50-70% off. I obtained a loaf of onion-cheese bread for 75 cents. Nom nom fest.

 

Get out there, stay psyched & Climb ON everyone!

–> Natalie Duran 

Malibu Summer Camping

Every summer we take a big group out to Malibu Creek State Park. I am the ring leader of this collection of loud rambunctious college kids. My main goal: Make sure they don’t kill me, themselves or everyone/thing surrounding them. This year 26 people attended this climbing/camping trip, which reasonable compared to last year’s trip of ~40 bodies.

Even though we climbed on a Thursday, the Rock Pool area was PACKED. I’ve never seen this place so populated. I was surprised some of those hefty persons were tolerant enough to take the hike in, props bru. I honestly don’t know why people willingly swim in that abnormally warm, murky green water. The location of the creek isn’t adjacent to a fresh mountain spring. You should think something is sketchy when underwater rocks are covered with a green slimy moss. Not to mention the graveyard of crayfish carcases spread around. Also, the beach is literally 7min away; but not sure if the beach is any cleaner. Due to sewage runoff just a few miles off shore. Sick bra.

To get to the climbing crag you have to traverse [5.3 & 5.5] over deep murky water. There was stacks on stacks of people heading to the climbing area, it became a miserable traffic jam. Try not to fall behind a newbie climber, you might have to lock off on wet rock. Don’t fall in, or you can kiss all your gear and your beloved iPhone goodbye. No FB check in for you! Below you can see the clusterf*** out on the right. NONETHELESS of my criticism for the area, I think the area is really beautiful and has a decent selection of sport climbs.

After setting up a few top ropes for the beginners, I jumped on a few routes for myself. Urban Struggle is my favourate climb for the Ghetto Wall Area. I love any chance where I can grab an undercling, hike my feet high up, and reach baby reach!

The end of the climbing day didn’t end so well. The route I climbed lowered onto a large pool of water. Pulling down the rope from the anchors was tricky. Apparently i’m no good at magic trickery, because I got both tips of my rope drenched in that microbe water. Had to dry it out when we got back to camp.

The Highlight of the trip was the camping. Last year we reserved the group site. Where we could be as loud as we wanted. We didn’t piss anyone off because the group site was secluded from the camp host by a half a mile. It was also divided by a nice big hill that absorbs sounds well. Unfortunately that site was booked months in advance on the day we wanted. So we had to settle with three conjoined campsites. I tried to pick the sites furthermost away form the host, and innocent families… still, no site was far enough.

Our middle site was the best, we had a huge tree to set up camp under. A few of the guys slept in hammocks high off the ground. Alex brought his generator and lights, under the starry night our site looked like a fun circus tree tent.

We had two amazing chefs who cooked food for all of us. Brian and Alex, you guys are amazing!


Overall, another great trip out with friends and VA members. It was the perfect way to enjoy a SoCal Summer. Another tradition we have with our Malibu trips (before everyone separates) we have to drive to O Dae San for Korean BBQ in Downtown LA! We got the entire top floor to ourselves, because our party was so large, nom nom fest.

Enjoy summer everyone! & Climb on

*note* If you want to leave a comment, please try to leave it with the facebook box! SPAM comments on this hosting site is heinous. Thanks!

–> Natalie Duran

Dealing with Influenza in Bishop

Ive been psyched because I planned on spending my spring break boulding in Bishop. Unfortunately, I contracted Influenza a couple days before my trip. My symptoms didnt show up until the day of the trip… so I had to suck it up for the sake of the rest of the climbing party, there’s no way I could go home.

I couldnt complain, because I had the most gorgeous view outside my hospital bed (aka my crashpad bed in my tent). I tried climbing the first day. One attempt on a climb equaled an hour sleeping under the boulder… from then rest is what I needed.

The first night with influenza in Bishop was insane. We camped out in this gorgeous site away from anyone else. Sounds from the adjacent creek soothed my death pain. My first night involved a high fever and blaring headache with little sleep yay. The temperature outside was 35F. Even with the chilly weather I was sleeping on top of all my blankets with a sports bra and shorts on. The world felt like the temperature of my body, a constant 101F.



Pretty bummed my climbing trip was ruined by the flu. Ive was so psyched to get out to Bishop again, ive been training to start/finish some projects. The only project I crushed was dying in my tent.

so so sad. next time.

climb on, and be healthy

-Natalie Duran