My longest project in the world is JBMFP (John Bachar Face Memorial Project) [V5] out in Joshua Tree National Park. Adjacent to the street out in Real Hidden Valley. Ive made maybe 5 trips out to this boulder, but that is collectivity over a year ha. Oh man, lemme tell you. Its a very “hard” techy V5. I love this problem so much, its an amazing problem.
The jist of my beta is: stand start on two crimps, pull up quick to get a foot on a TINY foot chip. Stand up and dont blow your one foot to grab on to a pinch-ish hold just above where your right hand starts. Move over to the right on the most painful razor sharp crimp side pull (grab on the 2nd rib of the crimp sidepull). I step through with my left, step slightly up with my right… then get the left foot on a really good foot hold that was used as the pinch-ish hold. Mind you, these feet in the beginning are dime-edge… balance and precise movement is key. Also, popping off the crimp side-pull will slice your finger open (did it to myself once xP). Then put your weight on that good left foot, reach up to a small crimp rail. Stand up to a small flag right over left and little launch for another crimp side rail. Adjust your feet on nothing, and to the top! Going to the top out holds puts you in a barndoor position. So stay on! Keep tight! Which is what I realized when I tried it out again last couple days ago. As you can see here…
There is a beta where you can dyno to the top from the two crimp side rails. I preferably would like to avoid the dyno, “Its not really my style” (Shit climbers say), and I cant dyno to save my life. So static it is…
Oh but its going down next time, and I will be styked as fuh. Everyone will know, yell it to whoever is on top of Intersection rock.
Aright, that’s it for now. Climb on!
-Natalie Duran
“I thought that was it too!”haha… You’ll stick it next time. Looks super clean!
Nat – I think your Tumblr has been hacked! Some strange page is coming up when visiting the URL.
Ohhh wait. I didn’t know about the blackout thing. Derp.
haha yea Stop SOPA.
Im helping support and protect the free flow of information on the web. Regulation on free speech would be horrid.
My job is a vlogger on youtube, I cant let that happen!
Oh I totally understand that – it’s a shame that internet piracy laws will affect those with original content such as yourselves. Let’s hope they at least filter such a bill so people like you don’t get wiped off the internet in the process!