Jtree Ticklist

Reading Jtree guidebooks for me is like reading an exciting novel. In the sense of knowing that there is potential to experience every single description and picture topo for myself. So I went through the whole guidebook, which is now filled to the brim of post it notes for ticks, and then compiled a more concentrated tick list of climbs I DESPERATELY wanna hit. Jtree Fall 2011 tick list is as follows:

TRAD

  • Heart of Darkness [11a] – (Ryan Mountain/The Oyster Bar Area) – My FIRST trad lead!! This is my main tick list to do, a personal one for me defiantly.  I top roped it first, walked up super cheese. So then I decided to lead it for my first trad lead… took a gnarly fall (which I captured: here) and had an awesome time. And still to this day I have a huge scar indent in my shin that reminds me of this climb each and every day. But has to be the most gorgeous splitter in Jtree. And the rock is defiantly different than the rest of the park. Smooth on the hands, great to get those desperate jams in.
  • More Funky Than Monkey [11c] – (Barker Dam) – I finished this on TR last year, and I think this route is actually a lot more safer leading it than TR… because there is a sketchy slab that you will drag on if you dont get past the first 2 moves on the epic roof section. But none the less starts off on a slab section, following up immediately to the roof section. This was the first legitimate roof ive ever climbs and it was amazing. And pulling the roof had enough legit feet and hand jam after the roof to get up on the face. Then I vaguely remember desperately trying to finish through the thin crack section following the roof. An amazing climb, must do out in JTree.
  • Wangerbanger [11d] **** – (Echo Tee) – I followed up this route last year. My partner and I just did O’Kelley’s Crack [10c] just to the right of Wangerbanger and felt that O’Kelley’s Crack was significantly harder than Wangerbanger. Probably for a reason I dont have sausage fingers and there was some sections were I could get a whole hand into the crack where my partner could only get fingers in. But it is a gorgeous splitter consistent thins hand.
  • Hot Rocks  [11c] **** – (The Outback) – Great varied crack climb, tips crack that leads up to bomber jams… leading a bit left to balancey moves to a crack to the top.
  • Coarse & Buggy [11b] **** – (Roadside Rocks/Dihedral Rock) – Start at the base and climbs cracks up into a large dihedral with a thin crack, finishing up some pumpy liebacking.
  • Rubicon [10c] **** – (Split Rocks Area) – I first saw this when walking to go do Bird of Fire [10a] out in the same area. It was a gorgeous visually aesthetic climb. With a dangerous looking long traverse out left, then goes straight up practically under 90 degrees from the direction starting off the route. The rope drag just sounds immense with this climb. But defiantly one to do. Awesome thin crack.
  • Perfect Fingers [10b] **** – (Queen Mountain South Area) – When my partner and I made the heinous approach out into the heart of Queen Mountain we saw this line. We never got to it, so I really would like to go back and do this line. Queen Mountain is the most gorgeous area out in Jtree… definitely one of the best rock and lines out there. The heinous hike defiantly makes it worth it, you feel like your worlds away from anywhere. Its name pertains to the climb haha.
  • Crack Queen [11a] ** – (Queen Mountain South Area) – Long steep climb that has all different crack climbing styles. Fingers, fists, offwidth/squeeze chimney.
  • Equinox [12c] **** – (Queen Valley) – Super mega classic splitter thin crack that widens to thin hands up top.

- Natalie Duran

 

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