My climbing post updates have been slowing down for a few reasons.
One, is due to Socal summers. The daily average temps peak at 95F, making it impossible to climb outdoors (unless your at elevation) or climb in the local climbing gyms. The two gyms I am familiar with do not own an air conditioning system. My home gym has a thing called the “swamp cooler” which feels exactly like it sounds. Hot and humid. It never really cools the air, just attempts to suck out the hot air. Which helps… only during the night when the gym is CLOSED. The other gym I attend, relies on the faint sea breeze that flows ever so often against your cheek.
The other reason I don’t post as often, is due to DPM’s fked up blog algorithms. The most recently updated blogs never clean up to the top of the list anymore. Sucks to see a robot spam blog getting the top spot on that page. So why even bother? If there are humans viewers who can read this post by following me other ways please let me know. Helps to know that my future posts are worth putting a little effort into.
I recently moved from the IE out to West L.A. which is snugly adjacent to the UCLA campus. I spend the first half of my week days donating my time to the Health System. After lunch, I dedicate my consciousness attempting to consolidate pages of MCAT material. The rest of the evening I can climb it up.
This week I brought my Mad Rock crashpad to LA. The closest bouldering area that I am aware of (and am familair with) is Stoney Point Park in Chatsworth. Without traffic its a decent 45min drive. So a few days ago, I decided to touch my tips on some real rock with a solo bouldering trip.
Stoney Point is a local bouldering spot that bears historical climbing history. It was said that this area was the FIRST EVER bouldering crag established. Take a time machine and you could have pebble wrestled with Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, Bob Kamps, Ron Kauk, John Long, and John Bachar.
The rock here is sandstone with boulders scattered around this large maze of a park. With each visit expect graffiti to grease up some start holds, and bring a trash bag to fill up.
There is a guide book for this location, but anticipate to translate old school topos. I found it best to just wander and keep my mind open for any boulder I approach. This place is well established, you can find chalk on every single boulder you encounter. With a little local help you can weed out the better climbs. Just say “Hot Tuna” and you will be pointed in the right direction. Today I didn’t jump on Hot Tuna. I passed on through and let the large group of people work it out.
It’s a place where you can bring your non-climbing friends, they can wander to get their shoes a little dirty. Parking is free on the side of the road, just watch out for cars because they zip by really close. Also turn your wheel away from the curb, its a steep one. If you smell horse manure, your in the right place.
This feels like it will be a great fall/winter season. I am training in the gym for the upcoming comps, and of course BISHOP! Hopefully I can see some familiar faces this Nov 8-10 for the Craggin Classic in Bishop. *crossing fingers* for cool temps and sends
Hope all is well and psyche is up up up.