Monthly Archives: January 2012

1st Time on a HIGH-LINE!

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         Such an amazing experience! I was invited by David Kingston to do some high-lining and light bouldering up in *an undisclosed location*. I have no idea how to slack-line, so going straight into a high-line was insane. I didn’t even know how to feel, because it was happening TODAY.


           David brought all the gear to set up the line. It was crazy watching the entire process of setting up the line. So much gear… and I though trad climbing had a bunch of gear. Anchors for slack-lining is burl insane! The line was about 160ft long and ~40-50ft up in the air. After an hour of set-up we were ready to get on it. I some some crazy things.

Jon Fait enjoying the rush... blood rush.

Dan Krauss up on the line

David Kingstone doing some tricks & throwing out the "rock on" high up on the highline.

…Now it was my turn to get on. I tied the leash onto my harness with a figure 8. Took off my shoes, and slowly butt scooted out far enough so I don’t bash myself into the boulder if I took a fall. The feeling is insane! I was really surprised I wasn’t afraid of the exposure or the height. Come to think about the feeling, I wasn’t really scared at all. The rush of feeling and experiencing something new is what placed me in that state of conscious euphoria. I attempted to stand up but didnt get it. The mantle move to get back up on the line is insane. Surprisingly I got the mantle down pretty easy (I thank slabby bouldering top-outs). Even though I wasnt able to stand up and take a few steps the little whippers were so fun!

Taking whippers on a highline is so different (and WAY more fun) than climbing whippers. Whippers on these lines were fun and bouncy, I don’t have to worry about slamming my face onto a rock face. It is still important to be conscious where the leash is. Before I got on the line, I had a good ear on the horrible rare stories of people dislocating their leg because the leash was wrapped around a leg when they fell off the line.

No injuries for me thankfully! The rig for the high-line was sound. I had such a great time with great company! I defiantly want to try high-lining again… but; I defiantly have to practice on walking on a slackline. Get the basics down first, it has to be done.

I *secretly* have a crush on the rush high-lining gives me. Don’t tell anyone. A crush that might develop to a love.



Get high everyone!

-Natalie Duran

Break these Babies in.

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Dropped by Madrock HQ yesterday, I bring treats for shoes! haha
Finally got my size of the new version of the MR Flash shoes.
Gonna break these babies in on some granite today!

I am going with David Kingston and his friends up in the mountians (Tahquitz, CA). They are going to set up a slackline up on some boulders, or a highline somewhere up high. I cant slack line to save my life. BUT he said he has all the stuff to rig up for a zip line. IM DOWN. Bouldering & ziplining all day today #firstworldwin

Have a great weekend everyone!

Climb on!

-Natalie Duran

Year-long Project = Crushed!

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This [V5] is really special to me, its been my project for over a year. By far my favorite send to date. Sending “John Bachar Face Memorial Project” made me look back and I appreciated everything ive been through. Ive learned so much. Ive met & made friends with great people in Jtree.

Its an extra special send video for me, a yearbook almost. Reflection on where I was… where I am now, and where I can go.

…still though, hardest V5 in the world haha.

YEA ROCK CLIMBING!

styked.

-Natalie Duran

Longest project in the world…

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My longest project in the world is JBMFP (John Bachar Face Memorial Project) [V5] out in Joshua Tree National Park. Adjacent to the street out in Real Hidden Valley. Ive made maybe 5 trips out to this boulder, but that is collectivity over a year ha. Oh man, lemme tell you. Its a very “hard” techy V5. I love this problem so much, its an amazing problem.

The jist of my beta is: stand start on two crimps, pull up quick to get a foot on a TINY foot chip. Stand up and dont blow your one foot to grab on to a pinch-ish hold just above where your right hand starts. Move over to the right on the most painful razor sharp crimp side pull (grab on the 2nd rib of the crimp sidepull). I step through with my left, step slightly up with my right… then get the left foot on a really good foot hold that was used as the pinch-ish hold. Mind you, these feet in the beginning are dime-edge… balance and precise movement is key. Also, popping off the crimp side-pull will slice your finger open (did it to myself once xP). Then put your weight on that good left foot, reach up to a small crimp rail. Stand up to a small flag right over left and little launch for another crimp side rail. Adjust your feet on nothing, and to the top! Going to the top out holds puts you in a barndoor position. So stay on! Keep tight! Which is what I realized when I tried it out again last couple days ago. As you can see here…

There is a beta where you can dyno to the top from the two crimp side rails. I preferably would like to avoid the dyno, “Its not really my style” (Shit climbers say), and I cant dyno to save my life. So static it is…

Oh but its going down next time, and I will be styked as fuh. Everyone will know, yell it to whoever is on top of Intersection rock.


Aright, that’s it for now. Climb on!

-Natalie Duran

What does this thing do again?

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Went out to Indian Cove in Joshua Tree National Park today to do some chill trad climbs with a few of my friends! We even unexpectedly climbed a multipitch route out there. 2nd pitch being a really fun skin scraping chimney climb. For the first time placed my shiny #5 BD at the start of the pitch so the rope doesnt sink into a deep dark crevasses… ran out the rest of the pitch no big bros there with me!

Brought a friend on her first trad climb, first multipitch, and her first rappel! Everything went safe and well, climbing was great and the weather was fantastic! Might head back tomorrow to do some bouldering. Its a great weekend to get out in Southern California. Enjoy friends and family company, and yourself.



*QUESTION from a reader*

maekrystine asked: Gahh your blog is fueling me! I’ve only lead one easy trad climb and followed many multi-pitches,but eventually I want to make the full transition to trad climbing, build my rack, and work on a stable self-reliance. You’re a seasoned (&Filipino!) climber that I’m looking up to :) Also loved those NJC photos! I had my first leads there.

awesome! If I could give any advice.

  • Just get out there and experience it more.
  • Follow up a lot, climb often. Once you find a stable partner; they know how you climb, you know your partner’s capabilities (make sure they are experienced).
  • Read “Rock Climbing Anchors” – A comprehensive guide by Mountaineers outdoor expert series. 
  • Play around with gear, on the ground or on top rope.
  • Try out a mock lead, then a full on lead if your mentally and physically able.

Once you know your in love! Start building up your rack slowly, or save up and get everything you need once you find a good deal!

Climb on!

- Natalie Duran

Gear Checking and Marking

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A Good way to start off the fresh year is with all my precious belongings here and accounted for. Hopefully none of my babies have run away/kidnapped.

If you ever have a free day take some time to gather all your climber gear together. Especially your quickdraws, harness, and rope. Every piece of climbing gear is important… for your life and others! Its always a good habit to check your gear once in a while to see if its in great condition. You never know if that one intense top-roping session at the crag sheared your rope. Keep an eye out for any frayed slings/rope <– (automatic red flag for replacement!).

Physics doesn’t lie! “A chain is only as strong as it’s weakest link.” Once that weak spot breaks free of the system, goodbye. Your done.

Here are my own tips for storing your gear:

  • Take pictures of your gear: With a gear check, I orderly lay out all my gear and take a picture of the lot. Save this picture on your computer, so in the future you can check and see if you have any missing pieces.
  • When storing in a garage = buy a haul bag: If you can keep all your gear in a pack that’s great. With the people who have trad gear, that can be an issue. It is good insurance to invest in a big ol’ haul bag to store all your gear in one spot. *Dave from the comments suggest getting a garbage bin for $8, great idea; a plastic storage bin keeps things organized. From experience: rats can be a bitch… and eat through rope and other assortments (even my car tire!). So from that moment on, after raging to avenge the death of my rope, I would constantly check before I go out and climb on it.
  • Keep away from direct sunlight: Duh, keep it away sunlight. The sun emits UV rays. UV (ultra violet rays) are very damaging for your own skin and for your gear. Basically, UV rays have the power to alter chemical bonds molecules, even without having enough energy to ionize atoms. UV rays lead to polymer degradation. Degradation occurs when you see colour that fades, cracks, etc. UV rays are the fast and quick way to age yourself and everything you own! So if you prolong gear in direct sunlight you drastically reduce its strength. Dont freak out! A lot of climbing gear has a cover layer of Ultraviolet Light Absorbers (UVA) that absorb light to prevent the photo-oxidation of materials (but try to minimize sun exposure as much as possible)…. anyways *nerd switch off* (Im a neuroscience major at a university, Its my life haha).

My tips for marking your climbing gear:

There’s nothing worse to get to a crag and get your gear confused with another person’s identical piece of gear. Prevent this by marking your gear.

    • Have your own signature marking. Your name is the obvious marking, but on smaller gear coloured markings are best. So stick to a marking and apply that to the rest of your gear.
    • Tape over Markers: Markers are usual taboo on climbing gear, because the chemicals in the dye and markers can degrade the nylons in slings or on rope. Even permanent markers rub off, but tape still holds up pretty well. I found the best way is to buy a pack of assorted coloured electrical tape. I would use a box cutter to thin out the width of the tape, since they do come pretty thick. Create your own signature color or pattern. Mine is red over green as you see below.

Avoid putting tape or markers directly on slings, I found the best way is to attach it to the info tag that is sewed onto the sling. This doesn't directly effect the strength and integrity of the sling at all.

With carabiners markers would just rub off. Be thoughtful when placing markings on metal. You have to think about the areas of usage on the biner. Avoid placing at the head or the tail of the biner, because rope can run through the tape.

With larger pieces of climbing gear your name works well. Your friends or climbers around you can yell out a name if they find a lost piece of gear. Just be sure the tape does not get in the way of the action of the gear in ANY way.

That’s how I handle my gear. If i’m gonna spend a gang load of money, I want everyone to know that’s MY gear, No touchie! Most importantly, have gear that is safe. Its always good to check every gear before you trust it with your life. Whether it is your own gear, or a friend’s. Broken gear & bones doesn’t sound like fun, avoid that with frequent gear checks. Anyways… hope this helps to some. Now get out there and do some rock climbing! Cheers.

-Natalie Duran

Anyone have any idea?

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I’m hoping the power of the internet and the online climbing community can do me a solid with knowledge…

Ive been wanting to do a lot of fun crack climbs out in Jtree, but finding partners available can be very difficult. So ive invested on a Petzl Croll & Mini Traxtion to use on a TR solo rig. I have a New England bipattern 10.1 x 70m rope that I am in LOVE with… and it hurts me to think I would put the minitraxtion (with teeth) onto my gorgeous, expensive, glider rope.

My question is:

Does anyone know how to buy dynamic climbing rope per foot/meter? I am looking to buy one that is ideally 45m-ish. To use as a single fixed line for TR Solos. *AND at the best ideal price* <– muy importante. Ive seen some sites online selling 10.1mm for like 90cents per foot. Ridiculous.

… I have been attempting to search online and in stores. For some reason that is beyond me, REI/Sports Challet/etc.. only sells static ropes on the cutting boards. Anyways, any insight please let me know! Help me get vertical, and high up on some crack yo.

Cheers,

-Natalie Duran