It has been a while since I touched real rock. I finally had time to get outdoors to climb this past weekend. For some magical reason the entire west-coast has been in a perfect 70F weather utopia the past three months. It may not be the ideal cold sending weather, but it still makes for a great vacation climbing trip. After minimal consideration I made a trip out to Red Rocks, Nevada.
Day One: The first day out was really tough, mentally and finger tip physically. My fingers were shedding too fast. Then my mental psyche fell to the floor as each dermis layer shredded. The Pearl [V5] will forever be my enemy. I watched multiple climbers statically reach up to the last crimp, from the start move with a drop knee. I attempted to extend all my limbs, unfortunately I was just a few inches short. Whenever my extension lacks, I have to resort to additional moves on tiny holds with high feet. The Pearl crimp dishes knifed into my skin too fast, so I had to give up this time.
We camped the first night, with terrifying 40mph+ wins throughout the night. I laid there awake most of the night staring at the roof of my tent, waiting for the moment where it would collapse upon me. I was terrified my long weekend of climbing might be cut short due to the crash pad kite winds. Thankfully I survived, and once the sun rose the wind disappeared.
Day two: Psyche up. My climber personality feeds off of the presence and energy of people. I find it difficult to continue climbing if I climb alone. I have attempted to project climbs by myself up int he wilderness. That day usually starts off with a solid 5 attempts, and then I proceed with a snack binge with a nap on my crash pad under a shaded tree. I was about to nap under a boulder until a huge group walked up. My energy spiked, and I was ready to try hard.
On the sunny side of “The Hot Tub Club” boulder is a climb called Vino Rojo [V6]. This climb has some great movement on solid rock. Unfortunately it faces the sun most of the day. It starts with jump to a sloper, with the immediate moves belonging to two solid undercling jugs. Thin feet and hands top out to a slab that contain two dime edge crimps. This boulder is a good height to get psyched.
Night Two: Everyone should know the geographical location of Red Rocks. It is 30 miles west of the Las Vegas Strip. If any climber has a party gene in them, they can get dirty in the dirt during the day then dirty dance through the night. We decided to go out to the rooftop Ghost Bar in the Palms resort. Going to a club on a Sunday night tends to be less populated, fortunately they have a great happy hour!
Day three: Try Hard Mode. Day three was the last day to climb. All tips aside, this was the day to give it my all. Here is a quick send video of the boulder I ascended on day two, and went back on day three to get a video of it. This climb is called Tied to the Whipping Post [V6] out in Kraft Bouders. It is located on the shady side of “Hot Tub Club” boulder along with Vino Rojo.
I actually popped my shoulder out of its socket during the video with the cross match, and popped back in. So i’m currently injured, BUT managed to finish the climb haha. Yay?
If anyone has any suggestions about how to deal with shoulder injuries I would love to know. I know the best solution right now is to heal and rest the shoulder. Rest days are hard for me, so I thought of doing just core workouts without any shoulder involvement or just do left shoulder isolation training moves while my right shoulder heals.
Try Hard Mode was a success, but I may have pushed it past the safety limits.
Cheers, & Climb on!